Clockwise from top left: Senetti, Dianthus, Apple, Erysimum (shrubby wallflower), Viburnum, Hebe, Euphorbia, Ceanothus
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For full shade, ferns and other leafy plants are most likely to succeed. But in partial and dappled shade you can open up to lots of pretty flowers. Most are low growing - plants need light to grow so they can only manage so much in the shade! Happily most are bee-friendly and many evergreen, meaning they keep their leaves year round. Lamium, Pulmonaria and Brunnera can give you the added attraction of silvery leaves to set off their delicate little blooms, depending on variety, and look best when grown en masse to make the most of their carpeting habits. Bear in mind that soil under trees is likely to be dry so make sure you choose plants that can cope with these conditions. Help things along with the addition of mulches, manures and composts to improve moisture retention and fertility. For more inspiration, Katie’s Garden has a polytunnel dedicated to plants for shade. See lists of plants for shade and dry shade at www.katiesgarden.co.uk/advice
If your climber has become a thicket be prepared to have to spend some time freeing out your clippings. The easiest approach is to make the cuts then come back a week later when the cut growth has started to die off making it easier to trace what needs pulling free from what you are keeping. Take the opportunity to fan out stems to spread across a wide an area as possible, as plants will naturally head straight up to the sunshine rather than outwards. With young plants, gardeners can be too focused on achieving height without thinking about coverage. Cut one shoot above a joint and you will usually get two shoots coming up in its place. So don’t wait till the plant has reached the top of the fence or you will end up with a spindly top-heavy plant. Remember too that climbers are fast growing, so when you cut, go at least two foot lower than you want them to be this summer as they will soon race back up. All Clematis get their annual prunes in spring. The early flowerers such as montanas can be done after flowering in late April or May, if they need thickening or rejuvenating. Early summer varieties can get a trim late February to early April, whilst the later varieties can get a harder cut as they have more time to regrow.
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The Flourishing GardenFeatured articles from our magazine, The Flourishing Garden. Pick up your print copy at Katie's Garden, Newbourne. AuthorArticles by Catherine McMillan, author of Gardening for the Uncommitted: What you really need to know when you don't really want to know
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