Tree terminology: what you might need to know!

Trees can completely transform a garden, their size and longevity giving the garden a sense of permanence and timelessness.

Most need little maintenance once established but it is important to get off on the right foot.

Although trees can be pruned, it is easier to pick one that will fit the space you have. It is easy to get caught up in ultimate heights but it is often the spread that will be more of an issue, so consider the shapes. Some have relatively columnar habits, some arch, and some have the classic 'lollipop' shaped crown. Bear in mind too that if you stick your hand up in the air you can probably reach to about 7ft, so a 10ft tall tree really isn't that big, so don't take fright at some of the ultimate heights!

With ornamental trees it is a case of checking the labels; with fruit trees it is all about the 'rootstock'.

​Most modern fruit trees have been grafted on to the root systems of less vigorous trees to limit their ultimate size (ie the top of one tree is cut off and almost literally glued onto the bottom of another).

​For example, a cherry tree on the 'Pixy' rootstock will only grow to 10ft, whereas the same variety of cherry on the 'Colt' rootstock will do double that, so it is definitely worth checking before you buy.

Anything producing fruits or berries will first need its blossom to be pollinated.

Some fruit trees are 'self-fertile' meaning a bee can transfer pollen from one of the tree's flowers to another, and fruit will result.

But for many they need pollen to come from a different tree. Apple trees are coded A, B, C or D, but what it really comes down to is that you need the two (or more) trees to be in flower at the same time for the pollinators to be able to travel from one to the other.

Unless you live in a very remote area it is likely there will be other trees in the neighbourhood close enough, but if you have the room it can be worth having your own extra trees: this can also increase yields in self-fertile trees.

What's the difference between a potted tree and a 'bareroot' tree?

At Katie's Garden we have a mix of 'container grown' and 'containerised' trees all year round. For our Tree Fortnight we also have a range of 'bareroot' trees. These are plants that have spent their lives growing in fields and are then dug up and offered for immediate sale without being potted, hence the roots are 'bare' of pots and compost.

As they have required less care than a plant in a pot they offer better value for money, but must go back into ground as quickly as possible. We store our plants in bags of compost to increase the amount of time they can be on sale, but recommend that you prepare the ground before you buy. They can only be offered in winter when the plants are dormant - not in leaf, bud or flower - as it is too stressful for them to be moved the rest of the year.

After the event ends we will be potting up the rest of the trees as containerised field-grown trees.

Finally our 'container grown' trees are just that: plants that have spent their lives in pots. As they require more care, from time spent potting them, the compost and fertiliser, and the more frequent waterings, they cost more than bareroot, but offer more flexibility when it comes to planting, although the dormant period of November to March is always the best time to get them in the garden.

It is very important that trees are well watered for the first few weeks after planting, and they should continue to get weekly, then fortnightly, drenchings for the first year they are in. Light waterings encourage roots to grow towards the surface, making the tree less stable and more vulnerable to drought conditions, so make sure you use at least a watering can's worth every time for a more resilient, well-anchored plant. It is also a good idea to water about a foot away from the trunk - going all the way round - to encourage the roots to spread outwards as well as down.

The area immediately around new trees should be kept clear for at least the first year: don't make them compete for nutrients with lawns or flowers by rushing into planting up around them.

Finally, very hard advice to follow, but fruit trees should not be allowed to fruit for the first couple of years - knock off the young fruits as soon as you seem them forming so the tree puts its energy into making a sturdy root system instead!

For more advice on planting, staking, watering and aftercare take a look at our YouTube tutorial: click here