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Advice from Susie Davis, owner of Katie's Garden Plant Centre A version of this article appeared in the East Anglian Daily Times, 29th April 2026 "The love of gardening often increases in later life, and it’s natural to look forward to retirement and extra time to spend tending your plot. But for many gardeners, it is also time to be realistic about the physical effort required – at the nursery, we are often asked to advise on achieving a low-maintenance, future-proofed garden. If you need to make your current garden easier to manage, make sure you focus on what’s important to you, and consider both structure and planting. If you hate mowing the lawn, could you invest in more hard landscaping, or a cobbled garden with Mediterranean shrubs such as Cistus, Phlomis and Lavender? Or try raising the cutting height just one notch – this will reduce the workload AND allow the grasses more resilience against drought. Raised beds can be a game-changer for bad backs and sore knees. Think carefully about where these are positioned – ideally somewhere you will regularly potter about, close to a water source and some seating, in sunshine or good light. Height is important – don’t skimp: you really want to be standing up with your trowel! Then fill with a good quality topsoil and plenty of organic matter. High-maintenance hedges could be replaced with slower-growing varieties such as Ilex crenata or Euonymus ‘Jean Hughes’. A cottagey herbaceous border can be very labour-intensive – could you transform that to a border of low-maintenance shrubs? We’re not talking car-park evergreens here – there’s a whole A-Z of well-known and less common species to collect, with something in flower all year round. Add a carpet of ground-cover perennials to reduce weeds, and a thick mulch of organic matter to conserve moisture, then sit back and enjoy – after switching on the water-conserving Porous Pipe system. Bring the countryside into your garden with naturalistic, wild-life focussed planting –and resist the urge to ‘tidy it up’! Even a small garden can host a well-chosen bird-friendly tree, potentially with coloured foliage, spring blossom and autumn fruit on one plant – consider Malus, Prunus and Sorbus varieties.  For some, change will mean a move to a smaller garden, perhaps even just a small courtyard or patio. This can initially feel very limiting, but you will be surprised how many plants you can shoehorn in! If you are moving to container gardening rather than generous borders, upgrade to the biggest pots you can afford with proper pot feet or individual wheeled bases. You will be able to create interesting mixed displays for a more natural look, and watering will be much easier – plus the larger rootzone gives better protection from frost.  Make every plant earn its keep. Spring and winter-flowering shrubs often have delicious scent (Sarcococca, Edgeworthia); herbs offer contrasted foliage, bee-friendly flowers and garnish for the kitchen; among the annuals, Cosmos and Dahlias are prolific enough to provide a few blooms for a posy. Grow-your-own is usually considered very labour-intensive, but there are satisfying shortcuts – try ‘Tumbling Tom’ tomatoes in a pot; red-flowered everbearer strawberry ‘Ruby Ann’; ‘Super Snack’ peppers adding red and yellow to your raised beds; cut-and-come-again salad leaf in a slightly shaded corner. Some of the best hardy perennials will bloom continuously from June to October –try Erysimum, Gauras, Salvias and Erigeron in pots as well as borders. For early spring colour, you can divert the focus to ‘lasagne’-planted bulbs – one pot filled with layers of different species for longer flowering (I like early Crocus, mid-season Muscari, and tulips to finish).  "Some of the loveliest gardens I know seem to be achieved with remarkably low effort. The key must be to retain the elements YOU love, so that you are encouraged and inspired to get out there, little and often, before a task becomes a chore. In that way, you’ll get all the health and wellbeing benefits of gardening without physical strain.
And remember, gardening can be a social activity too – share the deadheading, share the picnic on the patio, share the love of plants!"
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Plant herbs and flowers among your vegetable and salad plants to help them grow better!
English Marigolds, Sweet Peas and most herbs will draw in bees which will increase pollination of your plants. Among the plants that will deter aphids from your crops are Chives, Thymes, Oregano (Marjoram), French Marigolds and Nasturtiums. Parsley, Dill, Coriander, Fennel, Achillea (yarrow), Verbenas, Monarda and daisy flowers such as Cosmos and Sunflowers can attract predatory insects such as ladybirds that will eat aphid. See our list by clicking here Chives and other plants of the onion (Allium) family can be a deterrent to slugs and snails.
Trees can completely transform a garden, their size and longevity giving the garden a sense of permanence and timelessness. Most need little maintenance once established but it is important to get off on the right foot. Although trees can be pruned, it is easier to pick one that will fit the space you have. It is easy to get caught up in ultimate heights but it is often the spread that will be more of an issue, so consider the shapes. Some have relatively columnar habits, some arch, and some have the classic 'lollipop' shaped crown. Bear in mind too that if you stick your hand up in the air you can probably reach to about 7ft, so a 10ft tall tree really isn't that big, so don't take fright at some of the ultimate heights! With ornamental trees it is a case of checking the labels; with fruit trees it is all about the 'rootstock'.
What's the difference between a potted tree and a 'bareroot' tree? At Katie's Garden we have a mix of 'container grown' and 'containerised' trees all year round. For our Tree Fortnight we also have a range of 'bareroot' trees. These are plants that have spent their lives growing in fields and are then dug up and offered for immediate sale without being potted, hence the roots are 'bare' of pots and compost. As they have required less care than a plant in a pot they offer better value for money, but must go back into ground as quickly as possible. We store our plants in bags of compost to increase the amount of time they can be on sale, but recommend that you prepare the ground before you buy. They can only be offered in winter when the plants are dormant - not in leaf, bud or flower - as it is too stressful for them to be moved the rest of the year. After the event ends we will be potting up the rest of the trees as containerised field-grown trees. Finally our 'container grown' trees are just that: plants that have spent their lives in pots. As they require more care, from time spent potting them, the compost and fertiliser, and the more frequent waterings, they cost more than bareroot, but offer more flexibility when it comes to planting, although the dormant period of November to March is always the best time to get them in the garden. It is very important that trees are well watered for the first few weeks after planting, and they should continue to get weekly, then fortnightly, drenchings for the first year they are in. Light waterings encourage roots to grow towards the surface, making the tree less stable and more vulnerable to drought conditions, so make sure you use at least a watering can's worth every time for a more resilient, well-anchored plant. It is also a good idea to water about a foot away from the trunk - going all the way round - to encourage the roots to spread outwards as well as down. The area immediately around new trees should be kept clear for at least the first year: don't make them compete for nutrients with lawns or flowers by rushing into planting up around them. Finally, very hard advice to follow, but fruit trees should not be allowed to fruit for the first couple of years - knock off the young fruits as soon as you seem them forming so the tree puts its energy into making a sturdy root system instead! For more advice on planting, staking, watering and aftercare take a look at our YouTube tutorial: click here   To prune or not to prune? That is the question for autumn. When it comes to perennials – the flowering border plants that come back year after year – there is no “right” answer. Those that finish flowering in spring and summer are best cut back straight away as it often encourages regrowth and fresh blooms, and you don’t want grotty brown plants detracting from autumn displays!  But if they are running out of steam in autumn then they are very unlikely to do anything appealing again until next year. So the best thing is to cut them right back? Well, it’s six of one and half-a-dozen of the other as to whether you cut in late autumn or early spring. If you leave the old growth in place till spring then you are leaving habitat for wildlife to shelter in through the winter, anything from hedgehogs to beneficial insects. On the downside … you are leaving habitat for wildlife, anything from rodents to troublesome bugs and slugs. (Consensus these days is to help all wildlife for a balanced ecosystem in the garden and the hopes the ‘good’ creatures eat the ‘bad’ ones!)
If you leave the old growth it can protect the plant’s root system from the worst of the snows and frosts, helping it to survive the winter. But if the plant had any sort of fungal disease, leaving the old growth will increase the chance of reinfection. And if the plant is turning to mush from winter wet, leaving the old growth will increase the chance of the rot reaching the roots. Tall plants can get snapped, broken or even blown over in winter winds, which can harm the root system, and looks messy too. However, there are a number that have seedheads that birds can feed on through the lean winter months. Verbena bonariensis is a good example of a plant that feeds the birds if you leave it, gives you free plants from self-seeding, but can suffer in the wind if not cut. So when it comes to taller plants, what you decide to do comes down to personal preference, the size/shape/sturdiness of the plant and to how sheltered a position it is growing in. For other plants with bird-friendly seedheads click here.
Most perennials can get cut back hard to just a few inches, whether you decide to do it in autumn or spring. Exceptions are the evergreen perennials – click here – and those that have a woody framework, which should usually only get a tidy-up. The main cause of gardeners losing their (evergreen) Penstemon over winter is from over-enthusiastic pruning: taller plants will want the old flowering stems trimmed off to reduce problems in the wind, but the bulk of the plant should be left throughout the frosty season to protect the heart and root system of the plant.
Woody-stemmed Salvias such as ‘Hot Lips’ should get similar treatment, with only around the top half of growth cut down. But if it’s a plant that regrows from the ground and doesn’t keep its leaves year-round you are likely safe to cut back hard. If you decide to wait till spring it is a good idea to check up on your plants through the winter to make sure there isn't anything damaged, diseased or rotting that needs clearing away.  With Lavenders there are also arguments for and against trimming in either autumn or spring. But if left uncut they soon go straggly and bare at the base so they should definitely be done one time or the other each year! Cut about 1-2 inches below flowering stems. Evergreen herbs such as sage, thyme and rosemary should also just get light trims to prevent them going 'leggy', preferably several times a year. Most other herbs, including mints, tarragon, parsley and marjoram can be cut hard in either autumn or spring, subject to the same considerations as perennials. Most alpines are evergreen which means they should get no more than a trim. The majority are also spring flowerers and are best cut after flowering time. If you wait till spring you run the risk of new flowers being 'lost' amongst scruffy old growth. Ornamental grasses often have seedheads for the birds, and can also look attractive in the winter frosts, and this old growth should be left to protect the heart of the plant until spring. The main pruning time for Roses is February/March when new shoots start to appear on the stems - click here for tips. If it’s not a variety that produces rosehips for winter there is no harm in giving it a tidy-up trim now if it is bothering you in some way. Almost all shrubs are best pruned immediately after flowering time, if they need pruning at all. The main exceptions are those that will form fruits or berries after flowering – click here and here for examples. So if you haven’t done your summer-flowering shrubs already, get out there!
For all plants, but particularly shrubs, which will generally have thicker stems, avoid any pruning when frost is forecast as it can cause damage to open wounds which can then spread into the rest of the plant.
In theory, you can grow any plant in a pot. You can even grow an oak tree, if you are willing to go to the effort to bonsai it. But if you are looking to keep things simple, it is better to choose plants that don't mind the container life.
Other plants are simply too vigorous for growing in containers. The roots use up all the moisture too quickly, use up all the nutrients in the compost too quickly, and they fill up all available room too quickly. We recently dug out the planting from our Deer-Proof Garden. The Nepeta (catmints) and Monardas (bee balm/bergamot) all came out of 2 litre pots in March. Although they had grown considerably on top, the Nepetas' rootballs had barely changed in this period, showing why they are well suited to container growing. On the other hand, the Monardas had formed massive rootballs in just these few months, showing why they always look fed-up when in pots: they want room, lots of room!
The right-sized pot will make a huge difference. The ideal is to put it into something about two to three times the size you buy it in (by volume not diameter), and move up again if necessary after six months or a year (this could be a case of planting into a cheap plastic pot that is sunken into the nice glazed pot you want it to end up in if you don't want to keep paying out for proper pots). Cram the plant into something too small and the roots will stunt the growth, the nutrients will run out quickly and you'll be constantly watering. Go too big and the plant could struggle to access the nutrients and water it needs. You could also end up with a lot of soggy compost that will then rot the roots. The compost is all important. Use good quality; if it's a big container make sure it has some roughage to the structure to stop it going claggy. We don't sell it, but we use long-release fertiliser in virtually everything we grow at Katie's Garden (with the exception of seedlings and spring bulbs) and this makes a world of difference. Wondered why our plants look so much healthier than at some other places? A lot of it is down to the compost and fertiliser. So what exactly is good in a pot?? Click here for our Plants for Pots list for some of our top recommendations. You can also pick these lists up by the till at the nursery. And if you would like to have a go at mixed pots with summer annuals, you can watch our video tutorial here.
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Tips by Susie Davis, owner of Katie's Garden and Catherine McMillan, author of Gardening for the Uncommitted. Archives
April 2026
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