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Trees can completely transform a garden, their size and longevity giving the garden a sense of permanence and timelessness. Most need little maintenance once established but it is important to get off on the right foot. Although trees can be pruned, it is easier to pick one that will fit the space you have. It is easy to get caught up in ultimate heights but it is often the spread that will be more of an issue, so consider the shapes. Some have relatively columnar habits, some arch, and some have the classic 'lollipop' shaped crown. Bear in mind too that if you stick your hand up in the air you can probably reach to about 7ft, so a 10ft tall tree really isn't that big, so don't take fright at some of the ultimate heights! With ornamental trees it is a case of checking the labels; with fruit trees it is all about the 'rootstock'.
What's the difference between a potted tree and a 'bareroot' tree? At Katie's Garden we have a mix of 'container grown' and 'containerised' trees all year round. For our Tree Fortnight we also have a range of 'bareroot' trees. These are plants that have spent their lives growing in fields and are then dug up and offered for immediate sale without being potted, hence the roots are 'bare' of pots and compost. As they have required less care than a plant in a pot they offer better value for money, but must go back into ground as quickly as possible. We store our plants in bags of compost to increase the amount of time they can be on sale, but recommend that you prepare the ground before you buy. They can only be offered in winter when the plants are dormant - not in leaf, bud or flower - as it is too stressful for them to be moved the rest of the year. After the event ends we will be potting up the rest of the trees as containerised field-grown trees. Finally our 'container grown' trees are just that: plants that have spent their lives in pots. As they require more care, from time spent potting them, the compost and fertiliser, and the more frequent waterings, they cost more than bareroot, but offer more flexibility when it comes to planting, although the dormant period of November to March is always the best time to get them in the garden. It is very important that trees are well watered for the first few weeks after planting, and they should continue to get weekly, then fortnightly, drenchings for the first year they are in. The area immediately around them should be kept clear for at least the first year: don't make them compete for nutrients with lawns or flowers by rushing into planting up around them. Finally, very hard advice to follow, but fruit trees should not be allowed to fruit for the first couple of years - knock off the young fruits as soon as you seem them forming so the tree puts its energy into making a sturdy root system instead! For more planting advice take a look at our YouTube tutorial: click here  
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To prune or not to prune? That is the question for autumn. When it comes to perennials – the flowering border plants that come back year after year – there is no “right” answer. Those that finish flowering in spring and summer are best cut back straight away as it often encourages regrowth and fresh blooms, and you don’t want grotty brown plants detracting from autumn displays!  But if they are running out of steam in autumn then they are very unlikely to do anything appealing again until next year. So the best thing is to cut them right back? Well, it’s six of one and half-a-dozen of the other as to whether you cut in late autumn or early spring. If you leave the old growth in place till spring then you are leaving habitat for wildlife to shelter in through the winter, anything from hedgehogs to beneficial insects. On the downside … you are leaving habitat for wildlife, anything from rodents to troublesome bugs and slugs. (Consensus these days is to help all wildlife for a balanced ecosystem in the garden and the hopes the ‘good’ creatures eat the ‘bad’ ones!)
If you leave the old growth it can protect the plant’s root system from the worst of the snows and frosts, helping it to survive the winter. But if the plant had any sort of fungal disease, leaving the old growth will increase the chance of reinfection. And if the plant is turning to mush from winter wet, leaving the old growth will increase the chance of the rot reaching the roots. Tall plants can get snapped, broken or even blown over in winter winds, which can harm the root system, and looks messy too. However, there are a number that have seedheads that birds can feed on through the lean winter months. Verbena bonariensis is a good example of a plant that feeds the birds if you leave it, gives you free plants from self-seeding, but can suffer in the wind if not cut. So when it comes to taller plants, what you decide to do comes down to personal preference, the size/shape/sturdiness of the plant and to how sheltered a position it is growing in. For other plants with bird-friendly seedheads click here.
Most perennials can get cut back hard to just a few inches, whether you decide to do it in autumn or spring. Exceptions are the evergreen perennials – click here – and those that have a woody framework, which should usually only get a tidy-up. The main cause of gardeners losing their (evergreen) Penstemon over winter is from over-enthusiastic pruning: taller plants will want the old flowering stems trimmed off to reduce problems in the wind, but the bulk of the plant should be left throughout the frosty season to protect the heart and root system of the plant.
Woody-stemmed Salvias such as ‘Hot Lips’ should get similar treatment, with only around the top half of growth cut down. But if it’s a plant that regrows from the ground and doesn’t keep its leaves year-round you are likely safe to cut back hard. If you decide to wait till spring it is a good idea to check up on your plants through the winter to make sure there isn't anything damaged, diseased or rotting that needs clearing away.  With Lavenders there are also arguments for and against trimming in either autumn or spring. But if left uncut they soon go straggly and bare at the base so they should definitely be done one time or the other each year! Cut about 1-2 inches below flowering stems. Evergreen herbs such as sage, thyme and rosemary should also just get light trims to prevent them going 'leggy', preferably several times a year. Most other herbs, including mints, tarragon, parsley and marjoram can be cut hard in either autumn or spring, subject to the same considerations as perennials. Most alpines are evergreen which means they should get no more than a trim. The majority are also spring flowerers and are best cut after flowering time. If you wait till spring you run the risk of new flowers being 'lost' amongst scruffy old growth. Ornamental grasses often have seedheads for the birds, and can also look attractive in the winter frosts, and this old growth should be left to protect the heart of the plant until spring. The main pruning time for Roses is February/March when new shoots start to appear on the stems - click here for tips. If it’s not a variety that produces rosehips for winter there is no harm in giving it a tidy-up trim now if it is bothering you in some way. Almost all shrubs are best pruned immediately after flowering time, if they need pruning at all. The main exceptions are those that will form fruits or berries after flowering – click here and here for examples. So if you haven’t done your summer-flowering shrubs already, get out there!
For all plants, but particularly shrubs, which will generally have thicker stems, avoid any pruning when frost is forecast as it can cause damage to open wounds which can then spread into the rest of the plant.
In theory, you can grow any plant in a pot. You can even grow an oak tree, if you are willing to go to the effort to bonsai it. But if you are looking to keep things simple, it is better to choose plants that don't mind the container life.
Other plants are simply too vigorous for growing in containers. The roots use up all the moisture too quickly, use up all the nutrients in the compost too quickly, and they fill up all available room too quickly. We recently dug out the planting from our Deer-Proof Garden. The Nepeta (catmints) and Monardas (bee balm/bergamot) all came out of 2 litre pots in March. Although they had grown considerably on top, the Nepetas' rootballs had barely changed in this period, showing why they are well suited to container growing. On the other hand, the Monardas had formed massive rootballs in just these few months, showing why they always look fed-up when in pots: they want room, lots of room!
The right-sized pot will make a huge difference. The ideal is to put it into something about two to three times the size you buy it in (by volume not diameter), and move up again if necessary after six months or a year (this could be a case of planting into a cheap plastic pot that is sunken into the nice glazed pot you want it to end up in if you don't want to keep paying out for proper pots). Cram the plant into something too small and the roots will stunt the growth, the nutrients will run out quickly and you'll be constantly watering. Go too big and the plant could struggle to access the nutrients and water it needs. You could also end up with a lot of soggy compost that will then rot the roots. The compost is all important. Use good quality; if it's a big container make sure it has some roughage to the structure to stop it going claggy. We don't sell it, but we use long-release fertiliser in virtually everything we grow at Katie's Garden (with the exception of seedlings and spring bulbs) and this makes a world of difference. Wondered why our plants look so much healthier than at some other places? A lot of it is down to the compost and fertiliser. So what exactly is good in a pot?? Click here for our Plants for Pots list for some of our top recommendations. You can also pick these lists up by the till at the nursery. And if you would like to have a go at mixed pots with summer annuals, you can watch our video tutorial here.
 July is a busy month for the secateur! Lots of early-flowering perennials will have run out of steam, but this doesn't mean they're dying and it doesn't necessarily mean they are done for the year either. Although it can be worth leaving seedheads for the birds in winter, they usually have plenty else to eat at this time of year so you are better off having a tidy-up (unless you are particularly hoping for some free plants - but note some have a much better germination rate than others). Knowing what to do with your plants is infinitely easier if you know what they are, because then you can look it up. It feels very keen, but keep your plants labelled! Failing that, go back in time to see what happened to them in winter. Did they die back to virtually nothing, did they leave a woody framework, or did they just about hang in there with some slightly sad looking leaves? When it comes to perennial pruning, nature is very helpful as your guide, as you will want to mimic this. Why cut back in summer? It's not just about prettying up your borders. Flowers are all about reproduction. Every perennial's New Year resolution is to make flowers, attract pollinating insects to them to do their magic, form seed, make plant babies and then they can die down for the rest of the year. If you cut off the old flowers before they have a chance to set seed, many plants will have another crack at the whole cycle, meaning you get to enjoy a second flush of flowers (and so do the pollinators too).  As a broad rule of thumb, if it's evergreen it's a case of taking out the old flower stems and just removing grotty growth. This includes Euphorbias (wear gloves to avoid getting the sap on your skin), Dianthus (aka garden pinks), Helianthemums (aka rock rose), Geum, Heucheras, Hellebores, Bergenias, Sisyrinchium and Penstemon. Although evergreen, Brunneras and Pulmonarias look better for having everything cut off to a couple of inches.  If it's woody (it's probably technically a shrub) like a Salvia Hot Lips or Perovskia, cut back by half, and trim out any clutter and wonky bits while you're there. Most others will do best cut back to just a couple of inches. Why not just cut off the faded flowers? Because the leaves are usually getting pretty tired and cutting will give you lots of fresh verdant regrowth to enjoy. Plants to get the 'Wimbledon Tournament Trim' (ahem) include, deep breath: Alchemilla, Agastache, Aquilegia (columbine/Granny’s bonnet), Centranthus (valerian), Delphinium, Gallardia, Geranium, Gypsophilia, Lupin, Lychnis, Oenothera (evening primrose), Salvia nemorosa types, Verbascum, Dicentra (bleeding heart), Digitalis (foxglove), Hosta, Lamium, Polemonium (Jacob’s ladder), Alcea (hollyhock), Astrantia, Campanula (bellflower), Centaurea (cornflower), Coreopsis, Knautia, Leucanthemum (Chrysanthemum family), Linaria, Lobelia, Lysimachia, Lythrum, Monarda (bergamot), Nepeta (catmint), Papaver (poppy), Persicaria, Phlox, Potentilla, Physostegia, Sanguisorba, Scabiosa, Stachys, Symphyandra, Tanacetum (tansy), Teucrium, Thalictrum, Tradescantia, Trifolium (clover), Veronica.  With Erysimums (shrubby wallflowers) it depends on whether they are evergreen or not. Most get cut hard but you definitely shouldn't do that to Bowles Mauve. With all perennial pruning, when to cut comes down to personal judgement. If you have the time, remove spent flowers individually, but with plants with numerous small flowers such as Geraniums or Nepetas it is easier to decide the balance between nice and tatty has been tipped and it's time to get the secateurs out. Keep in mind the sooner you do it, the sooner you get the regrowth!  
Don't let the slugs and snails get you down! It's not all about beer traps and copper rings, there are numerous other steps you can take. Make your garden more wildlife friendly by providing ground cover plants and shrubs for beneficial creatures to hide up in, and water to live and drink from. Songbirds will eat the snails; toads, frogs and hedgehogs will eat the larger slugs; and beetles can take care of the smaller ones. Even garden features that sometimes come under flak can help: lawns are useful for birds to use to swipe the slime off slugs before they eat them, whilst other birds will appreciate a small patio areas for cracking snail shells on!
Shade-loving Hostas can suffer from the attention of hungry molluscs, so instead go for ferns, Fuchsias, Heucheras, Hydrangeas, Alchemilla (lady's mantle), Vinca (periwinkle) and Hellebores. Is there any point throwing slugs and snails over the neighbour's fence? Probably only if it's a wilderness. If you don't want to harm them - and of the UK's 120 types of snails and 45 types of slug only a few cause damage to ornamental plants - then the compost heap is the best place to put them. Slugs and snails play an important role in breaking down old vegetation to return nutrients to the soil, so it could be the solution that keeps everybody happy! Need to track them down first though? Check the rims of pots and lay down plastic trays in likely damp and dingy spots for a few days!
Let's be honest, there has not been too much to worry about with the watering so far this year. But in optimism of a better summer, make sure you know what to do in case of watering emergencies!
LEVEL ONE RESCUE Hot sunny days can catch out the best of us, and you can end up with some sad, wilty specimens. What to do? First of all, don’t spend ages stood there pointing the end of a hose at your dried out pot plants. It is a waste of your precious time and of precious water – if the compost has dried out then the water will flush straight through and out the bottom before the roots have had the chance to grab any. Instead, if you can, put the pot into a saucer, a bucket, a washing up bowl or anything that will hold a pool of water. Fill the base of your chosen item with water (an inch depth should be plenty), give the plant a normal watering from above and then leave it there until tomorrow. If your pot is too large to move, maybe a hanging basket, or your wilting plant is in the ground, then you should carry out multiple waterings. Consider the first a ‘pre-soak’ that will just dampen the compost enough to bind it back together. Go off and have a leisurely cup of tea and when you return give another normal watering – this should be much more effective as the compost should now be moist enough to retain the water you give it. If things are looking dire you might want to give a third drink a few hours later. Fingers crossed tomorrow your plant will be right as rain!  LEVEL TWO RESCUE You forgot to water your plant, you tried the life-saving techniques, waited a day, but unfortunately they weren’t enough and you are now staring at a crispy, browning plant. The time has come for drastic measures. If leaves have gone brown then there is no coming back for them. Brown leaves don’t get better so remove them (this rule is relevant for lots of gardening circumstances including black spot, rust, being munched by beasties etc. Green colouring will not magically reappear, holes will not magically refill). However, it is likely your plant’s root system is still fighting strong, so unburden it of useless material like dead stems and leaves so it can concentrate its energies on recovery. If it is a woody plant, cut back to healthy growth. If it is a soft stemmed plant, you are probably better off cutting down the entire plant. For some plants a hard chop can be a ‘do or die’ move, but it is usually the plant’s best chance of healthy survival, and at this time of year you won’t be waiting long for it to grow back.
The simplest way to find out if your plant needs watering is to poke your finger into the soil. The top inch being dry is fine, but if you've got down to two inches and there's still nothing, it's time to water. If it's sodden at the top, hold fire. The amount of water to give is down to numerous variables: a young plant in a large pot will need a lot less than a pot-bound specimen. A plant in shade will need less than one in full sun. If it's raised up on a stand it will dry out quicker in the breeze than one in a sheltered spot. If it's midsummer it's going to have many more hours of sunlight on it than in spring. And some plant families are much thirstier than others. An Acer in a pot will mostly survive on rain, rarely wanting intervention from you, whereas a Lupin could need watering twice a day. Keep doing the poke test and you will soon learn which plants need what.
And finally, make sure you do it properly! The classic jibe from old lags to new nursery workers: “Are you watering those plants or giving them a wash?” The plants want their water at their roots. Splashing it all over the leaves could lead to scorching, increase the chances of fungal diseases, and generally mean the plant can't make full use of the water.
 A commonly made mistake with climbing roses is to leave them to it. But roses flower at the ends of vertical growth, and rose stems will naturally grow straight up towards the sun, leaving you craning your neck up to look at a small spread of blooms. So to get the most out of them, it is up to you the gardener to bend the stems into a more horizontal form. All along these horizontal stems the plant will then create a multitude of short vertical stems that will lead to a stunning wall of roses. The cheapest and easiest way to do this is to screw vine eyes into your wall or fence and attach horizontal support wires through them. It is highly recommended to get these in place before your rose gets to any great size to avoid you being ripped to shreds! Then carefully bend down the stems and secure to the wire with twine, leaving room in the loops for the stem to thicken up over time. Each year in February/March cut back the vertical stems to around three leaf buds/inches above their parent horizontal branch to stop the plant getting unwieldy. If you still want your plant to get higher up the wall, leave a few vertical stems close to the centre of the rose to get long enough for you to bend them horizontally.  The top right half of a trained climbing rose, making use of two support wires 1-2 ft apart.
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Tips by Catherine McMillan, author of Gardening for the Uncommitted. Archives
January 2025
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